I due più affascinanti castelli di Transilvania

Non esiste regione europea rappresentata con una descrizione più lontana dal vero come la Transilvania. Penso infatti che al nominare l’area tutti pensiamo automaticamente a una regione sperduta, impervia, scura e misteriosa, perché tutti siamo schiavi di ridicoli clichés che poi, nella maggior parte dei casi, si rivelano vere e proprie bufale metropolitane.

Peles, Sinaia

Vediamo la Transilvania riportata sugli schermi cinematografici come sede di set di film dell’orrore, e non sappiamo invece che la gran parte del territorio è agricola, commerciale e facilmente visitabile, percorribile con comode strade che ci accompagnano ad itinerari turistici e gastronomici di rilievo.

La Transilvania occupa la parte centro-occidentale della Romania, e ne è il cuore. Le prime comunità furono formate dai tedeschi (sassoni di Transilvania) con sette borghi.

La mia visita in questa regione parte dal castello di Peleș, a Sinaia, sui Carpazi, dimora  e residenza di re Carol I di Romania, discendente della dinastia germanica Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen. In 48 anni di regno (dal 1866) questo sovrano fece in modo che la Romania si sviluppasse velocemente, ma alcune sue scelte durante il primo conflitto mondiale furono controverse e in disaccordo con l’opinione pubblica. 

Visitando il palazzo e il territorio che lo comprende nel pieno autunno ho l’occasione di assistere ad un impressionante spettacolo di “foliage” nei boschi attigui. In questi luoghi si respira ancora un’aria selvaggia, nonostante siano ormai, ai nostri giorni, destinazione di gran numero di turisti locali alla ricerca di ricordi di splendori passati. Un cartello ci rende attenti al fatto che potrebbero aggirarsi degli orsi.  Ce ne andiamo in punta di piedi.

Castello di Bran, Transilvania

A una cinquantina di km. dal Castello di Sinaia sorge invece un altro tipo di dimora ben più (in apparenza) inquietante e sinistra: si tratta del Castello di Bran, la cui storia/leggenda supera i limiti dell’immaginazione più cupa. La creazione letteraria e cinematografica della figura del principe Dracula è arrivata ad ogni angolo del nostro mondo, ma la realtà non segue la trama così ben descritta da scrittori e registi.

All’inizio del XIII secolo il luogo fu sede di una fortezza, luogo fortificato distrutto da un’incursione mongola. Il castello divenne poi sede del regno d’Ungheria e nel 1920 soggiorno dei sovrani del regno di Romania. E’ difficile capire che in queste impervie mura, dall’apparenza così seria, vissero felici delle persone, al punto da divenire luogo di soggiorno della regina Maria di Sassonia-Coburgo-Gotha, che abbellì i suoi interni. 

Castello di Bran, Transilvania

Anche qui si manifesta, nella stagione autunnale, un forte abbraccio della natura nello splendore del “foliage”, meno intenso che a Sinaia, con un tocco più delicato.

Come arrivare:

  • Aeroporto di Bucarest – Otopeni, da lì:
  • in Bus dalla Gara de Nord, Bucarest – destinazione Sinaia (circa tre ore)
  • in auto da Bucarest città (circa due ore)

Tour in Transilvania organizzato da TravelMaker Romania

94 Thoughts to “I due più affascinanti castelli di Transilvania”

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